Just joined The Splendid Sampler (http://www.thesplendidsampler.com/blocks-and-bonus-projects/) quilt along. I am loving it! Two new blocks a week plus trying to catch up because I joined late. Here's block 50.
Reading a Knitting Chart
Using the chart above, knowing that the odd number rows are right sided, here is how the rows would be worked:
Row 1: Kfb, k1, p2, k1, kfb (this row has 6 sts because it doesn't take into account the extra sts created by kfb until AFTER you have created them and are about to start row 2)
Row 2 and 4: K2, p1, k2, p1, k2 (note that the same symbol is used to k on the RS and p on the WS, and the same symbol is used to p on the RS and k on the WS)
Row 3: P2, k1, p2, k1, p2
Row 5: Slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in front, p2 from lefthand needle, k2 from cable needle. Slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold in back , k2 from LH needle, k2 from cable needle.
Row 6: P6, k2
When using hand dyed yarns, always use two skeins at a time and alternate skeins! This is important because hand dyed yarns always vary in color, and if you don't alternate skeins, part of your garment will be a completely different color from another part. Switch skeins every two to four rows.
Two Knitting Increases - Right Lifted Increase and Left Lifted Increase
The Right lifted Increase leans to the right, and it is the increase you want to work after a marker. First identify the loop you are going to knit through. It is the loop immediately below the first loop on your lefthand needle.
Lift up this loop, from back to front, using your righthand needle.
Place the loop on your lefthand needle.
Knit through this loop.
You have created your extra stitch, now continue to work the row.
The Left Lifted Increase leans to the left, and it is the increase you want to work before a marker. First identify the loop you are going to knit through. It is the loop 2 rows below the first loop on your righthand needle.
Next, lift up the loop, from back to front, with your lefthand needle.
Knit through the loop now on the lefthand needle and continue working the row.
I'm starting my son's Christmas sweater using Cascade 220 Superwash, so I was inspired to save a skein for my readers. Leave a comment below and on Monday, October 19, I will randomly choose someone to receive the yarn. It is color 1946, Silver Grey (lot number 140472).
Three great stitches that don't curl!
These stitch are all beautiful and incredibly easy. Seed and Moss create a looser fabric (so you can insert it anywhere you want in a pattern), while linen creates a tighter and firmer fabric (would swatch it first and switch to larger needles to insert into an existing pattern). Here's an idea, make a beautiful scarf: Cast on either 40 or 41 stitch (depending on which stitch you want to work), work stitch of choice until it's the length you want, add tassels (here's a great tutorial for tassels).
From bottom to top:
seed stitch, moss stitch, linen stitch, two color linen stitch, three color linen stitch.
To create seed stitch:
Cast on an odd number of stitches.
Every row: * K1, p1; rep from * to one stitch before end of row, k1.
Or…cast on any number of stitches and k1, p1 to the end of the work. Knit the purls and purl the knits.
To create moss stitch:
Cast on an uneven number of stitches.
Rows 1 and 4: K1, * p1, k1; rep from * to end of row.
Rows 2 and 3: P1,* k1, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 through 4. You will quickly see the pattern and easily be able to work it by memory.
To create linen stitch:
Cast on an even number of stitches.
Row 1: *K1, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front; repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2: *P1, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back; repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
For two color linen stitch, work with color first color for two rows, then second color for two rows, repeat. For three color linen stitch, work first, second, and third color for each row respectively, repeat. For example, Row 1 in yellow, Row 2 in blue, Row 1 in purple, Row 2 in yellow, Row 1 in blue, Row 2 in purple, etc.
To slip purlwise with yarn in front, put yarn into front of work, place needle in stitch as if to purl, slip stitch off of needle.
To slip purlwise with yarn in back, put yarn into back of work, place needle in stitch as if to purl, slip stitch off of needle.
Preparing for my next tutorial...
Origami, baseball at the park, a little Viola...
Trying to finish my sweater by Rhinebeck...
All in all, a lovely weekend so far!
Knitting a Bobble
Bobble are simple and fun to make and can be inserted instead of a knit one or purl one.
1. Work to the stitch you want the bobble to originate from. Knit into the front of the stitch, then into the back of the stitch without taking the stitch off of your needle. Do this twice. Knit into the front of the stitch one more time. Drop the stitch from the left hand needle. You will now have five stitches on your right hand needle.
4. Enjoy Bobble!
2. Turn work, bring yarn to front, purl five stitches. Turn work, bring yarn to back, knit five stitches.
3. Slip the second stitch on your right hand needle over the first stitch. Do this 3 more times. You now have one stitch again. Hold yarn firmly as you continue to the next stitch in the row.